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Silverado Camper Repair Places Near Me

Published Jun 07, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement Silverado, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, however withdrawed both awning just to be safe. Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Silverado Camper Repair Places Near Me. I'm thinking the repair work will involve replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We've got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is great, yet the front one is broken at the base and entirely appeared at the top, so that the leading support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Silverado Camper Repair Places Near Me).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is broken it needs to be entirely changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like advice as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without having to place in a brand name new awning! We remain in a very significant bind since we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to discover a quick and efficient service. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. However in order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the recreational vehicle awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I require to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. I pulled these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off first prior to the last steps of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really need to do this step up until the awning was on the ground however I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing bracket on the right. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning. Once the installing brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is generally similar to a regular item of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. Here's an appearance at the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Just tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When both set screws were removed I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples holding it down. I tore them out as best I could. The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once more I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding should be eliminated.

After that I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the very same means, and curved it sideways simply enough so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this moment) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in all holding back the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I do not know just how exactly they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof covering was shedding toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the way down after all. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Silverado Camper Repair Places Near Me. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scuffed up a few of the busted little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I could see the steel framework below. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing was losing strength and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off just before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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