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Camper Service And Repair Placentia

Published Jun 04, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Placentia, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything amiss, but retracted both awning simply to be safe. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had actually been drawn away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided right into has pulled away from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Service And Repair Placentia. I'm presuming the repair service will involve replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we recognized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, however the front one is broken near the bottom and completely broken through on top, to ensure that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper. We remain in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Even the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Service And Repair Placentia).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it needs to be completely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without needing to put in a brand new awning! We're in an extremely serious bind due to the fact that we have a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather find a fast and efficient solution. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Improvement Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the last actions of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing system decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I discovered this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the right. Removing the mounting brace of the awning. When the installing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is generally much like a normal piece of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding except that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. Simply yank it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground little by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were eliminated I might move the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might wind up eliminating it later if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roofing outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift have to be raised. To lift that, the edge molding should be removed.

Then I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scrape to a tight 6 large putty knife. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. Then I loosened the various other edge trim similarly, and curved it laterally simply enough to ensure that I could raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting yet adhesive at this point) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Now I can draw out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scraped up several of the broken little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to bring up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framework under. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the items together. I do not understand exactly how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those edge trim items all the method down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive at this factor) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Camper Service And Repair Placentia. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the pieces together. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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