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Camper Repair Shops Near Me Placentia

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement Placentia, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything amiss, but retracted both awning just to be safe. A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rain gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Repair Shops Near Me Placentia. I'm presuming the repair service will entail changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got broken braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major fixings, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we realized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The rear bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Repair Shops Near Me Placentia).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even obtain us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather discover a quick and efficient solution. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. But in order to remove the fourth one, I need to eliminate the motor home awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roofing outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll additionally see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final steps of this article (exposing the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this action up until the awning was on the ground however I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Removing the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather quickly.

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! As soon as I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire point suddenly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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Once the 2 set screws were eliminated I can move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roof decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once more I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding must be gotten rid of.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same way, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the way down. Yet we'll reach that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's simply standing out via the staples. The edge of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side. Very same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down but glue now) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scratched up a few of the broken bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I can see the steel framework underneath. But after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not know just how precisely they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roof decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting yet glue at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Camper Repair Shops Near Me Placentia. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framework beneath. Yet after that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces together. I do not recognize just how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are joined together at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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