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Camper Service Near Me Irvine

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is glided right into has drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Service Near Me Irvine. I'm assuming the repair will entail changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant repairs, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we understood the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The back bracket setting up is fine, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey metal - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as guidance as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even obtain us via the summertime - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly rather locate a fast and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system decking, I need to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also discover exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the last actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roof decking).

Here's a detail of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the. Eliminating the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may have to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. After that just yank it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather rapidly.

As soon as the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples holding it down. I pried them out as ideal I could. The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply tore up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the corner molding have to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same way, and curved it laterally simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which implies I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items all the means down. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this point) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I began carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to draw up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how precisely they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items completely down besides. Yet we'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping through the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge. Very same bargain once more. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however glue now) and afterwards I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Camper Service Near Me Irvine. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started very carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the items together. I do not know just how exactly they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off just before the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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