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Atwood Camper Roof Repair

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Atwood Camper Roof Repair. I'm thinking the repair will involve replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing larger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is great, however the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio sensible? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey steel - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly even obtain us through the summer season - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to find a fast and effective solution. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the final actions of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the installing brace of the awning. As soon as the mounting brackets are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally simply like a routine item of aluminum roofing side trim molding except that at the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Right here's a look at the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite swiftly.

When the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail away.

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As soon as the two set screws were eliminated I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roof outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift should be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched over from a scraper to a stiff 6 wide putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch large taping knife. Then I loosened the other corner trim similarly, and bent it laterally just enough to ensure that I could raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish removing those edge trim pieces all the method down. But we'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply standing out via the staples. The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side. Exact same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scratched up some of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point started to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof was losing stamina and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

It's just popping via the staples. The side of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Exact same bargain once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Atwood Camper Roof Repair. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roofing system was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off simply prior to the initial joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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